My light of choice is the Godox or Flashpoint AD200 non pro version works great as well and it's not all that expensive. It’s significantly more powerful than a speedlight and is still somewhat compact and works great in most situations. Even with this I sometimes end up doing multiple flash pops in larger rooms. I am personally using this round head for it instead of the typical rectangular fresnel head. The fresnel head does do the job but I just don’t prefer the way it bounces and spreads the light off of the ceiling. The round head has a nicer and more pleasing quality in my opinion. I also attached a pistol grip to it and I use this sling strap to sling it over my shoulder so I can carry it around hands free and move my tripod around from shot to shot with ease.

Link to Flashpoint eVOLV 200 Flash: https://www.amazon.com/Flashpoint-Pocket-Flash-Trigger-AD200/dp/B078K4XMKM

Now let’s talk about the flash trigger. The trigger mounts onto the hot shoe of your camera and allows your camera to communicate and remotely trigger your light. It also allows you to control the power or intensity of your light which you will need to do depending on the size of the room you are shooting. I am using the Godox X-Pro-S trigger for Sony Cameras. Now something that I want to point out is that these Godox triggers are known to cause white balance issues when in manual mode which is how we will using them. You will get an overly warm temperature image at times. Long story short, there are pins on the bottom of the trigger that communicate information to the camera which are really there for your flash’s TTL mode but it screws the white balance up in manual mode for whatever reason. This is a known issue with these and I personally deal with it by just correcting any color issues in editing as you can see demonstrated in the video posted above. From what I’ve heard, a lot of people found a work around by getting the Godox trigger for a different brand of camera (for instance if you have a Sony camera then buy the canon trigger) so that way the only pin that will line up on the trigger is the one that tells the flash to fire so you won’t get any interference with your white balance. This may save you some time in editing by getting your white balance cleaner in camera but I have not tried this out myself. I have also used the FPFlashpoint R2 Single Pin Transceiver on my Sony and have no issues with white balance.

Link to Single Pin Transceiver: https://www.amazon.com/Flashpoint-R2-Single-Pin-Transceiver/dp/B07VHFS6FQ

Next, let’s discuss the light stand and the reflector. 98% of the time you will not need these but just keep them in the trunk of your car so you can pull them out whenever you might need them. As I mentioned, I typically carry around my AD200 on a sling strap on my body and I don’t put it on a stand. This just makes things quicker and easier not having to move a stand around the house and I always aim to be as efficient and stripped down with my gear as possible. The only times I would put my light on a stand is when I go into a house and there are rooms that have ceilings that are wood or painted a dark color or basically any color but white. Reason being is that we are typically bouncing our flash off of the white ceiling and using it as a giant reflector to fill the room with light. We can’t do that if the ceiling isn’t white because a dark ceiling will absorb the light and if we do get any sort of bounce it will have a color cast to it which we definitely don’t want. So in those situations I would just put the light on the light stand and hold up the white side of the reflector and aim the light toward it and bounce it off of there. You don’t need anything special or expensive as far as a light stand and reflector go. I use the round head 98% of the time when I shoot Real Estate. 

Link to Round Head for Flashpoint: https://www.adorama.com/fplfevrh.html

For More information on Real Estate photography & media visit:  www.MarkJacobsProductions.com 

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